The simple solution is to shut the engine down for a minute while you
disconnect B+. The problem with breaking the output and frying the diodes
only happens when the alternator is putting out power.
--
Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com
"Manlio" <noemail@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:k7rb14tv4oiucblbraod5dbinavr3541oe@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Followup to msg on Tue, 29 Apr 2008 01:18:41 +1000, "Faire dinkum"
> <littlejohny@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> :
> (Original msg on bottom)
>
> The output voltage is no more regulated and current flows
> continuously in order to start warming up the batteries, i.e. the
> regulator doesnt switch off the charge. I suppose it has been due to
> temperature failure as the solid state regulator may have similar
> problem.
>
> The alternator is a Valeo type with only the B+ Negative and D+ wires
> on output. I thought the D+ was the lamp line. I suppose you mean that
> D+ is the excitation line. ( I had the idea it was internally
> connected, then not reachable).
> Pls be so kind to confirm.
>
> Thanks for the fast answer.
>
> Manlio
>
>
>>Just disconnect the field wire from the alternator.
>>I wouldn't say that it couldn't happen but what sort of regulator
failure
>>do
>>you envision that would result in overcharging the batteries?
>>
>>"Manlio" <noemail@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>news:p1nb141ssp8fg3beaus8eg7u8qm6pne5vo@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> there is a simple way to stop the alternator delivering current when
>>> the regulator has a failure ?
>>> Just not to overcharge the batteries.
>>> According to what I know the B+ cannot be open (diode break), so as
>>> the belt cannot be pulled away due to the water pump.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any idea.
>>>
>>> Manlio
>>>
>>
>
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