Re: F-plug need to be fully tightened?

GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Sep 2008 20:04:34 +0100, The Natural Philosopher <a@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> wrote:
> 
>> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>> Peto wrote:
>>>> On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
>>>> <news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>:
>>>>> Tim Perry wrote:
>>>>>> Please post a link to your recomended product.
>>>>>>
>>>>> <http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
>>>>> pdf>  Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.
>>>>>
>>>> I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
>>>> plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
>>>> Tunerlube?)
>>>
>>>    A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.
>>>
>>>
>> Remember all its there to do is fill any airgaps to prevent moist air 
>> getting in and starting corrosion. It takes almost no contact at all to

>> provide a good RF transmission: its when that contact is via a film of 
>> oxide, that troubles start.
> 
> 
>   Yes, as such "films" are typically similar in electrical
> characteristics to resistor mediums. Which means loss.
> 

Its worse than that: silver oxide over brass makes a fairly decent 
rectifier. You can add harmonics that weren't there.

In my particular hoibby - Radio controlled aircraft - it even has a name 
- the rusty fence syndrome. Rusty fences do strange things to 
shortwaves. You get all sorts of intermodulation effects with a rusty 
fence: makes quite a good mixer.

>   The other problem is that such "layers" between a true metal to metal
> contact makes for a very noisy electron stream, as well as the losses
> presented by the higher resistance.

That's less releavant at RF..unless its wobbling in the breeze.